At Arum, in the premises of the once legendary Boschendal restaurant, chef Travis Finch is flexing some very creative muscle. Co-owner Peter Tempelhoff invited me into the restaurant’s inner sanctum – the kitchen – to meet him.
Have you been here before, the uniformed man at the gate wanted to know?
Yes, said I.
Ah, then you remember where the parking is?
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Noooo…
Oh? When last were you here?
The seventies.
Sjoe!
Actually it was probably somewhere in the Eighties, when Boschendal restaurant was famed for its huge buffet of traditional Cape dishes. Or maybe I came here in the Nineties. On second thoughts, I must have done.
But no, I’m not going to bang on about how none of that old fare is available here any more, even if somebody, somewhere, needs to take up that baton. But not here: I like what’s happening here too much to hanker for the old days. We’ve all moved on.
When something this good is happening on one of the finest old estates at the Cape, it’s worth celebrating for what it is, while respecting what once was. And what is happening is Arum. And chef and partner Travis Finch. It’s the newest eatery in the FYN Group.
Group supremo Peter Tempelhoff drove out to Boschendal at the foot of the Helshoogte pass to introduce your food editor to Travis Finch, whom he had enticed back to South Africa…
Source:
allafrica.com
